Loya, the new restaurant at The Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai brings alive lesser-known fire techniques Dhungar, Baghar, Sigdi and Dum.
The Premise
Dhungar, Baghar, Sigdi, not quaint titles but live techniques that range from smoking food over charcoal for deep, buttery aromas through to blooming spices in hot ghee to unlock rich flavours down to grilling over coal or wood for an earthy, smoky flavour. Loya, the newest offering from Taj Mahal Palace, with its souk-like ambience, caught my fancy because here a girl from the hills was being informed that the cuisine would remind her of home. I picked up the gauntlet.
The Promise
Loya (meaning grand feast) treads an expanse from the foothills of the Himalayas to the flat terrain of Punjab, to snow-laden Kashmir, carrying culinary secrets from the vivid north. Chasing the delectable waft and in the familiar confines of Taj Mahal Palace, Mumbai, I’m whisked straight into a world of arches, jalis, copper tones and a Himalayan spring microcosm within a bazaar-like setting. Memories of stepping into the spices souk and marvelling at the hues as a child, this feels like time travel.
The Presentation
The seating with traditional khatias and peedas had me well-ensconced, while admiring the hand-painted ceramics from Khurja and metalware from Muradabad, each a unique piece and a hat-tip to artisanal luxury. Each table setting narrates the journey of food from grain to plate using symbolic chalnis (sieves) and paraats (platters).
The Paanch Philosophy
The raconteur service informs around the menu and how the Paanch philosophy of drinks is inspired by the five rivers of the North and the five senses. We prepare for the handcrafted beverages which encapsulate Indian botanicals, local and homegrown flavours as The Himalayan mule (lemongrass vodka, basil limoncello & house-made ginger beer), Gulab (rose-cardamom vodka, pineapple, citrus-rose mist) and Mulethi (mulethi gin, citrus blend & honeycomb tuile). Subtle, hinting at the region of birth, yet sensorial, Gulab becomes my go-to for the duration of the meal.
The Pièce De Résistance
Ever the carnivore, as I looked at brand chef Rajesh Wadhwa’s thoughtfully-curated menu—sublime, select and subtle, the choices take me on a stairway to gastronomic heaven. We begin with Gosht ki Lazeez Pasliyan, a special cut spicy lamb and tamarind-glazed potato on the side with a hint of stone flower and kebab chini. With its smoky, fire-kissed appeal, this is the piece de resistance.
My favourite though is the Dum Nalli (baby lamb shanks slow-cooked and falling off the bone) as I savour what is best described as a non-restaurant, reminiscent of home recipe. I have found The One. Couple it with Malera Roti made with cultured dough combined with cashew nuts, sesame and fennel seeds, lending it a rustic, earthy finish.
The Palate, Pudding & Proof
To explore all cooking variations, we call for Dum Biryani (a winner) and dal lentils, which come accompanied with the banghar cooking technique added on the table with some oil, sizzle and drama. Speaking of theatrics, the kulfi pops in their colourful avatars finish the meal on a sweet high. Now all that’s left for us is to pound our own after-meal mouth freshener in a mortar and pestle to create our own signature mukhwaas.
But not before I admit that Loya hits home.
