Designer Payal Pratap started her eponymous label back when the ‘sustainability’ label didn’t exist with as much enthusiasm as it does in today’s fashion climate. Back then, designers like Pratap simply chose a foundation for their label that was rooted in indigenous textiles, traditional crafts and a sense of ease. The designer’s use of crafts reflects the value she places in working with artisans and textile traditions. As the designer navigated through her design evolution over the years and growing her label, there’s been a sense of softness that always prevailed.
As I waited for the showcase of her latest collection ‘Pressed in Time’ to start, the tree installation made with denim scraps and almost whimsical soundtrack transported me into a dreamy garden- an imagined paradise filled with botanicals and butterflies. Botanicals are after all a staple at Payal Pratap, translated through her collections using threadwork, embellishments and textures. Even her use of Shibori in an earlier collection adopted floral formations instead of the traditional geometric ones we usually see with the printing technique. ‘My childhood unfolded in gardens, guided by a green-fingered mother, surrounded by blooms and the gentle rhythm of changing seasons. Those memories return as botanical impressions: intimate, tactile and enduring,’ she says.
Needless to say, elements of the garden were expected. What surprised me, however, was how a sense of sartorial edge balanced the softness of botanical details. In collaboration with R|Elan, the focal point of the showcase was the Greengold fabric made using recycled PET bottles. Greengold took a denim avatar- some distressed, some embellished, some handblock printed and some juxtaposed with flowy florals or checkered weaves. Drawn from her childhood, leaves, ferns and foliage were transformed into prints, textures and surface details, appearing almost fossilised across indigo denim. Techniques like cyanotype-inspired prints, laser applications and digital transfers brought an almost archival quality to the garments, echoing botanical studies preserved over time.
Relaxed silhouettes dominated the lineup, with oversized jackets, skirts, gilets and dresses layered with appliqué, quilting and distressed finishes. A cut-out style botanical denim dress felt fresh, while the closing look, a white shirt paired with an oversized ombre denim skirt balanced edginess with ease. The result felt both intimate and grounded, balancing everyday wearability with a sense of quiet craftsmanship. The designer also marked a new beginning with a debut menswear line, featuring denim pantsuits, oversized jackets- all embellised with floral appliques and strped prints,
Sustainability remained a key thread, both in material and presentation. R|Elan’s fibre innovations underscored the collection’s focus on circularity and responsible production, while the runway itself reinforced this narrative.
