Years ago, actor Dia Mirza took to Instagram to share a post from her wedding. In her caption, she acknowledged the role of craftspeople at work. ‘It is easily one of the most spellbinding processes. The precision and fluidity with which those hands and feet move so perfectly synchronised with the rhythm of the loom creating poetry in motion… Let’s appreciate the hands behind the looms that work meticulously to weave the finest of the fabrics.’
Mirza isn’t a lone voice. Through the years, celebrities like Vidya Balan and Shabana Azmi have advocated for handlooms and master weavers across the country, in an ode to our rich cultural heritage. Most of these unsung contributors to the unorganised handloom space in India are women, both weavers and entrepreneurs.
The Handloom Census 2019-20 findings stated that about 35,22,512 handloom workers were employed across the country, out of which 25,46,285 or roughly 72.29 per cent were women. Of these, Assam saw a leading number of women handloom workers – 11,79,507!
Says Ramya Mohan, Creative Director of Dakshinam Sarees, ‘Depending on which part of the country you belong to, weaving is either a man’s job or a woman’s job. In the south, men are predominantly engaged in weaving. The women usually help in associate activities such as spinning, bobbin reeling, preparing the warp, sorting out and organising the colours and so on. In the Northeastern regions, it is predominantly a woman’s job.’
She adds, ‘When it comes to entrepreneurs there is a large representation of women across the board. In order to work in the handloom sector, one requires a lot of understanding and empathy. Women work one-on-one with weavers and their families, and can have a comfortable dialogue, achieving greater levels of success. Because of the decentralised nature of the business, there are so many women working at different levels. From online aggregators of hand-crafted products, to policymakers who make an impact, they’ve all been able to spearhead some pathbreaking work. Flexibility is one of the benefits of the business, and there is also technical intervention now, with lots of weavers working over WhatsApp or video calls. So, the process has become seamless; we don’t have to travel to remote areas because weavers are now empowered with mobile technology.’

Micro-financer and artist Kunika Garg says that women entrepreneurs in the handloom sectors have indeed crafted some success stories for themselves, but weavers still face disadvantages. ‘In India, women are at the forefront of handloom weaving, and often begin at a very young age. However, this weaving often happens in closed communities, which means they work out of small spaces, away from retail establishments and therefore not in the public eye. Therefore, their contributions go unnoticed, they largely occupy backstage roles, and a chunk of the revenue goes to middlemen and retailers. Further, there is also the increasing threat of mechanisation of looms, which eats into their livelihood.’
The NEPC and Export Council of India strive to provide global platforms for craftspeople to showcase handlooms outside the country. Handlooms encompass saris, dupattas, kurtas, dresses, shirts, and other accessories, but aren’t just restricted to fashion. Other products such as bed linen, table linen, mats, rugs, bath linen and cushion covers are as much in demand and contribute to a significant chunk of the economy. According to The Handloom Export Promotion Council (HEPC), over 60 per cent of export handlooms are home textiles, with the USA being the largest importer, importing handloom products worth USD $58.12 million in 2022-23.
Given the resurgence of interest in handlooms globally, Ramya is also hopeful about the growth potential of the industry. ‘People are becoming more mindful about consumption practices and discerning about what they want to buy,’ she says. ‘They want to be informed and educated about the quality and context of the product. Handlooms offer that, because there is 100 per cent transparency. It’s easy to know the community that’s making your product. There are many avenues such as craft exhibitions, popup stores, and patron brands bringing in new talent in the form of weavers and artisans, who spearhead conversations about context and the community that makes them.’
She does admit that there’s a downside - dwindling consumption of handlooms as the larger population requires cost-effective products which will last and be durable. These work wear, uniforms, and easy wear. Power looms and textiles have taken over these sectors in a very big way. ‘This has led to the loss of handloom communities and people discontinuing their practices. I however remain optimistic that there will always be a requirement for well-made, mindfully-created products that are made by hand and with natural fibre. I don’t think that will ever die out,’ she adds. ‘We constantly want to reinvent luxury, and today I think luxury is a beautifully hand-spun yard of khadi fabric, so handloom has a huge potential to serve the luxury market!’